For Africa, we look after more than a year, largely because of my fears of malaria and African roads, coupled with Africa's same crime. But as it turned out, the rumors and what about the other are greatly exaggerated, if all the moments visits arranged in advance from Moscow.
On safari we spent 8 days at 4 in Kenya and Tanzania. Visited including religious Masai Mara and the crater-Ngor Ngor (a huge caldera - Depression struck 3 million years ago10-kmvolcano). Ngor Ngor, I would even be called a miracle of light - a unique place in the bottom of this volcanic "plates" have accumulated vast herds of different animals, where there are African cold at night (already 16 at a height of 2200, where we lived, but during the day are also 30), where just a very beautiful views, bright colors and not a beautiful sunset. Yes, and there, with all my heart for astronomy as well - the unreal, the fantastic sky, I have not seen anywhere else so strewn brightest stars in the sky.
Animals have seen nearly all, everything in the photo. We only escaped cheetah and leopard (in general these cats, I particularly did not expect them and the truth is hard to see, they are very careful).
They lived in lodges, have replaced their units 6, is standing right in the heart of national parks, hotels, "natural" type, in which the right to territories can roam antelopes, gazelles and other ungulates are harmless, plus macaques and baboons (that would be better if they do not wander, unfriendly and unsafe) - this afternoon. But at night close to the bungalow can be approached hyenas, hippos, elephants, leopard (depending on the national park - one where the usual). Therefore, in parks everywhere warning that the guests did not go with 18-30to 6-30the territory without an accompanying (and there everything is made so that when whatever you left the room - will always stand near some guards, ready to carry you and all kinds of help).
In fact, safari most of the time sitting or standing in the car, leaving only allowed in certain places, usually near the lakes where the birds and hoofed animals, and dangerous animals away. When you want to - the machine stops, so that you can make pictures or just look. But in the Masai Mara did not come out too lion place, but the car without a roof - a great review in any case. But one thing was pure safari on foot, there is only secure the animals in the park Naivashi.
Always interesting. That drives up to buffalo or lions at 5 feet sticking out through the open roof, they are on you at point-blank look - and zero emotion. While you're in the car - you have to have an empty space, how big stone, but if you just come out - everything. You - the object of hunting or self defense. And the most dangerous animal - a hippo, it is from his bites are killed most people in Africa (well, given his stupidity, aggression, speed and opens in a meter of mouth - not surprising).
Machine tuning it for safari - high minibuses or cruisers with easy climbing the roof (convenient ride standing - everything you see without glasses), two spare wheel, water, first aid kit, a big shovel and other Pribluda. Plus the windows are open, because These cars without air conditioning. In large cities (Nairobi, Arusha) in some places, we guide said: "F is now close all windows. Ptomu as drove past slums, where there are frequent robberies cars through the windows at the traffic lights and traffic jams.
Were in the village of the Maasai, they have a special status, such semi-citizens. Ie they can leave their land, move, get a job, including state agencies - and then they will have a minimum sotsgarantii, voting rights. However, most of the Maasai living apart ("we are not working and not paying taxes - you do not give us sotsgaranty"), they migrate within the allocated use of land, pastoralists and some subsistence farming. True, their children are all free in school, at least in the initial (what a beautiful form of schoolchildren there!).
They live in small villages, chieftaincy can be passed from father to son, but they can also turnut, and elect a new leader. Yes, the leader will not be (even by inheritance), a young man, not single-handedly killed any lions. They most often hunted with spears, while the turnover of weapons (and a Kalashnikov in particular) in Africa is varied, it is legally or illegally, almost everyone who is on money can afford it.
Masai very well know how to make fire with dry sticks, quickly, quickly rub their moment - and please fire. They showed us and fomenting the fire, and their ritual dances and even sang for us.
I can not say nothing about life. Taki comfort - even in Africa comfort. What can I say, after3-6hour ride on the road is very nice when you meet at the lodge with wet towels and passion fruit juice. About such trifles as problem-free water, cleanliness, hygiene, electricity and Inet generally keep quiet, this by itself. Save it only for street lighting, so useful to us a powerful flashlight, which we took with us. And in most lodges do not kondeev, the maximum fan, but we like it and do not need.
Two features are interesting dishes offered by the lodge:
There are many correct English cuisine, prepared dishes, a legacy of the colonial past (as the English themselves say, "Alas, we have this almost can not be found") - roast beef (nastoyaschiy!), a saddle of lamb with green peas, puddings very different (but puddings alone Food on the fan, I personally still with Southeast Asia, they do not like), and indecent full version of the classic English breakfast.
Very tasty cooked vegetables in various forms. And by themselves, and legumes, and corn porridge, and in the European manner, and Asian, and African. I sunk down on the vegetables in Africa, clearly, for this can be and to become a vegetarian for a month or so (I speak as a committed meat eater).
But the fruit out there by the standards of the tropics and the inexpressive very simple, there is some kind of "endemic" and the general violence of diversity, both in Southeast Asia or South America.
After the safari we flew to Zanzibar. Arrived at the airport in Arusha. Trying to understand - where the airport? It was found out that under a canopy of palm leaves and wooden construction, it hurt like a bus stop in a remote Russian province (and even then - not modern, and years since60,like in the movies show) - this is their airport domestic flights. Hmm. Well, checking in. Of all the electronics - bad TV shows, which is attached almost at the tree (in theory it announced flights, but only when it can be set on the program you want that for our flight did not). For 10 minutes before our departure uncle loudly shouted something like: "Who's at Zanzibar 14-00,send me! ". And we went. Straight to the aircraft, hmm.
Comrades, do not fly on 20-localmaize;! This horror-horror, with all my love to fly. Such a flying taxi-ghazal (in size and tightness) that the first 20 minutes, until the height of the gathering, hanging out and shaking so that pulls together praying and cursing, and generally uncomfortable. Zanzibar but worth it. But it's pure relaxation on the ocean was, without a tour, but with all the charms of the African climate. Zanzibar I have now taken on the note as a good place to relax with a child (the future).
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